How to paint your home exterior's

Nothing in the world breathes life into your home like a fresh coat of Jewell Paint. Use this step-by-step guidance and our premium Jewell Exterior paints and primers to achieve beautiful, long-lasting, professional - quality results. STEP-1

Choosing the right paint

A home’s exterior can make or break that all-important first impression, so it’s vital to choose the highest-quality paint possible. A coat of paint not only creates an attractive appearance for years to come, it also protects exterior surfaces from moisture, fading and temperature changes. High-quality paint will provide better protection, complete coverage, easier application and longer-lasting results. When it comes to buying paint, you have lots of choices, some determined by your application and others that are based solely on your preference. To truly transform a home, and make a good impression last, select a premium paint, which provides a smoother, more uniform appearance, as well as better durability than economy paint. By using premium paint, your project will likely require fewer coats to give your home the protection it deserves. Also, you won’t have to repaint as frequently. Consider using JEWELL premium exterior latex paints for superior durability, water repellency, mildew resistance and protection against UV (Ultra Violet) color fade.

Selecting the Right Gloss

The gloss level you choose for your paint project can have a significant impact on both appearance and maintenance. To determine the right sheen for your exterior project, consider these factors:
Soft Glo & Satin Glo paints are best for concealing surface imperfections and are ideal for large areas, such as exterior wood, masonry and wall surfaces. We recommend JEWELL's X-Guard Soft Glo & LookOut Satin Glo paints for such areas.
Semi Glo & Dazzle Glo paints are best for highlighting details, such as window frames and doors, and are easy to clean. Consider using JEWELL's Best House Pearl Glo & Best House Dazzle Glo paints for such areas. These paints are also best for masonry and exterior walls, they add additional beauty to your house architecture, but to attain such beauty you need to prepare the walls properly and there should be no undulation in it.


Choosing the right primer

Priming before painting ensures superior adhesion of the paint to the surface, helps cover darker colored paints and stains, and creates a smoother, more even finish. There are many different primers, each suited for a particular surface, such as drywall, metal or concrete, or to address a particular problem, such as to cover stains or to prevent tannin bleeding. Use the following exterior primers for each surface type:

1. Wood
100% acrylic primer that provides excellent enamel holdout and tannin stain resistance on woods such as redwood and cedar, which are subject to stain bleeding.

2. Block Fillers
Heavy-bodied acrylic latex primers/fillers that fifill and bridge voids and cracks in porous cinder block and concrete block.

3. Multi-Purpose
Acrylic multi-purpose primer that provides superior adhesion, outstanding stain-blocking, excellent enamel holdout and great hide.

4. Masonry
Epoxy-fortied acrylic latex primer/sealer that provides very good resistance to efflorescence and alkali. Water-based, two-component epoxy water-proofing concrete/masonry sealer that provides superior adhesion and outstanding alkali resistance. Alkyd primer that binds severely chalked paint to the surface.

5. Metal
Solvent-borne epoxy-ester primer with excellent adhesion and corrosion resistance for use on galvanized metal and aluminium surfaces, as well as ferrous metals. White alkyd primer that provides excellent corrosion resistance on ferrous metals. 100% acrylic primer that provides excellent corrosion resistance on ferrous and non-ferrous metals.


Estimating the correct amount of paint

You can get a fairly accurate idea of how much paint you’ll need for your project using these simple calculations.

First, measure the distance around your home.
Wall A: Length: _________x Height ___________x No. of Walls ______= Total sq. ft.:___________
Next, multiply by height* to get square footage (sq. ft.).
Total Perimeter: _________________ x Height: _________________ = Home sq. ft.: ___________
Subtract the area for doors (about 21 sq. ft. each) and windows (about 15 sq. ft. each).
Home sq. ft.: ___________________ – Doors & Windows: ___________ = Total sq. ft.: _________
To determine the number of gallons for one coat coverage, divide total square feet by 400 square feet (approximate coverage for one gallon). Consider buying enough for two finish coats for the truest color and best coverage
Total sq. ft.: ____________ ÷ 400 = Gallons needed for one coat: ____________

*Note: if you are painting a home with gables (a triangular area just below the roof), measure the whole structure from the base to the roof to obtain the height. This will provide some extra material to ensure you have enough paint on hand for the project.


Buying the right tools & supplies

We've created this simple checklist of the tools you should have for your exterior project

Dust mask to protect your lungs from fine particles and paint vapors
Goggles to protect your eyes
Sandpaper and sanding block to rough up shiny areas and smooth any rough spots
Wire brush or paint scraper to remove loose paint
Flexible patching and putty knife to fill small holes and cracks in wood and smooth concrete
Caulk and caulking gun to repair cracks in corners and around moldings

Stucco path and rubber float to repair small holes in stucco
Masking tape and paper to protect glass and fixtures
Drop cloths to cover floor, carpet, furniture and other areas
Wall brush for “cutting in” around corners, windows and doors
Sash brush for painting trim
Roller cover and frame for painting all of the large, flat surfaces inside your home

Bucket to mix your paint
Extension pole to paint those hard-to-reach areas and finish your job faster
Wiping cloths to clean up any spills


Getting ready to paint the exterior of your home

Weather and the elements are unkind to home exteriors and, over time, can severely damage paint; therefore, proper surface preparation is essential to achieve the best results. This begins by identifying and addressing the source of any problems before painting and using a primer if surfaces are unpainted or the original paint is in poor condition.

Cut back shrubs and plants so they are easier to cover, but do not leave plants covered too long.

Cover all objects and surfaces not being painted with plastic and make sure to move any cars away from painting area.

Clean gutters and downspouts.

Wash the area beneath the roof eaves to remove any dirt or surface contaminants. Wear goggles and protective clothing. Rinse area thoroughly with clean water.

Remove surface dust and dirt using a cloth or soft brush and soapy water. Remove all stains, such as chalking and mildew.

Repair all voids, cracks and holes.

Sand all surfaces to smooth them out and use a wire brush or paint scraper to remove loose paint.

Caulk all surface joints, cracks and seams. Make sure the caulking is thoroughly dry before painting. When working with bare surfaces, prime before applying caulk.

Fill any cracks or large holes with a flexible patching material. Allow the patching material to dry completely before applying primer.

Prime any areas that have not been previously painted or any exposed areas where paint has worn thin, or is peeled or blistered. Allow all areas to dry thoroughly – one or two days may be necessary, depending on the primer used.

Prime gutters and downspouts. If gutters and downspouts have been painted previously, remove any rust and peeling paint using a scraper or wire brush. Sand all edges and wash the area with a garden hose or power washer. New aluminum gutters and downspouts that are factory-finished should remain in good condition for several years. New unpainted galvanized gutters and downs pouts arecoated with an oil that must be removed prior to painting.


To remove the oil, use a moistened rag with a solvent or a water-soluble degreasing cleaner and thoroughly wipeall surfaces.

As with all painting projects, the key to success is preparation. Clean areas to be painted thoroughly with a solution of tri-sodium phosphate (TSP) or a good phosphate-free substitute. This removes dirt and grime that would keep new paint from adhering.

1. TRIM BRUSHES AND LIMBS: Trim or tie back any bushes and limbs that will get in your way. Cover nearby plants with drop cloths or tarps. Turn off any air conditioning units and cover them with plastic and tape as needed.

2. REMOVE SHUTTERS AND CLOSE STORM WINDOWS: Remove any shutters and close the storm windows. Inspect your siding and trim carefully, looking for holes and cracks, then make the necessary repairs. You should fill holes and damaged areas with some wood filler, let it dry, and then sand it smooth.

3. REMOVE OLD PUTTY: You'll want to reglaze windows if the old putty is cracked or shrunken. You can remove the old putty with a chisel or stiff putty knife, but be careful not to break the glass. Apply the new glazing compound as needed, pressing it in place with a putty knife.

4. SCRUB THE SIDING AND TRIM WITH SOLUTION: Use a brush or broom to scrub the siding and the trim with a solution of tri-sodium phosphate or a phosphate-free substitute. You can rent a pressure washer that makes fast work of this job, but be careful not to force water into any cracks between the sidings. Be sure to wear gloves and other protective gear when using cleaners and chemicals.

5.RINSE HOUSE: Carry the plate or bucket of glaze in your other hand, or keep it nearby on a chair or stepladder.

6. REMOVE ANY REMAINING PAINT: Use a power sander to remove any remaining paint scraped areas. A sander will cut through the paint in a hurry, so be careful not to damage the siding.


Exterior painting techniques

When painting a house, it’s best to follow a time-tested plan. First, remove shutters and screens where possible. Start with the walls, then the trim. Follow up with the railings, porches, steps, foundation & shutters.

1. PRIMING THE SURFACE : Masonry surfaces always should be primed, especially if water stains are present or if glossy paint is to be top-coated. Cedar and redwood contain resins that bleed through water-based paints, so use an oil-based primer on bare wood. Make sure there's no rain in the weather forecast. You'll need to apply primer to any bare siding. For best results, allow the primer to dry according to the manufacturer's recommendation. A sprayer or roller will speed up the process.

2. PAINT ROOF TRIMS AND SOFFITS FIRST: Paint the roof trim and soffits before the walls if they will be different colors. This will keep the trim paint from dripping onto the newly painted walls.

3. PAINT THE INSIDE CORNERS AND AROUND TRIM: Paint the inside corners and around the trim. A corner roller or trim brush is a great help when cutting in these areas.

4. PAINT BOTTOM EDGES OF SIDING: On clapboard or shingle siding, paint the bottom edges of the siding before painting the face. That way, you'll make sure you don't miss any spots. A trim roller works great for this job.


5. DO WALLS WITH A ROLLER OR BRUSH: Do the walls with a roller or a brush, starting at the top. If you're up on a ladder, work carefully and don't overextend your arm -- it could throw you off balance. Try to finish strokes directly in front of you so you can make sure there’s no drip. Paint one defined "block" at a time.

6. FEATHER THE BRUSH OR ROLLER: Start each stroke by feathering the brush or roller. Feathering means placing the surface of the brush or roller against the siding gradually, instead of abruptly. This eliminates a definite start line and makes it easier to blend the next block of strokes into the present block.

7. BLEND THE STROKES TOGETHER: Blend the strokes together by working quickly. Never stop in the middle of a section. Paint to the corner of the house so the paint color is consistent. Move the ladder so you can just reach the completed block of siding. To eliminate lap marks, rewet the feathered edges of the previously painted block with your brush or roller just before you start each stroke. Repeat the process until the top area is completed, then move on to the lower sections.

8. SPEEDING UP THE PROCESS: You can speed up the painting process by using a paint sprayer; a variety of sprayers is available for rent or purchase. Choose a calm day to spray your house. A windy day can make spraying difficult. Regardless of how you paint the house, let the paint dry and then touch up any missed areas. You may need to correct drips or sags with a razor blade or sanding block.


Painting Exterior Windows

When it comes to painting the outside of your windows, use Jewell Exterior Latex Paint. Jewell paints are specially formulated to be tough and long-lasting. When you're painting, don't worry about getting some paint on the glass. Just wait until it's dry, and then use a single-edge razor blade to scrape off the excess.

1. BEGIN BY REMOVING SASH: When painting double-hung windows, start by removing the sash. Put the sash on a couple of sawhorses or a work table. If you can't remove the sash, then work carefully so you don't paint the window shut. Paint the sides of the vertical stiles first, using a 2-inch trim brush with just a small amount of paint.

2. BEGIN IN UPPER LEFT CORNER & POINT DOWN: Beginning in the upper left corner, paint downward until you reach the bottom of the sash. Lift up on the brush at the end of the stroke. Continue until the sides of all the vertical members are completed.

3. PAINT BOTH SIDES OF ANY GRILLS: Paint both sides of any vertical and horizontal grills in the sash. If you get paint on the glass, let it dry, then scrape it off with a single-edge razor.

4. PAINT BOTH SIDES OF THE RAILS: Now, paint both sides of the rails (horizontal sash members) on the upper sash.


5. PAINT FACES OF GRILLS, RAILS AND STILES: Paint the faces of the grills, rails and stiles on the upper sash. When completed, repeat the process for the lower sash.

6. DOUBLE-HUNG WINDOWS STILL IN THE JAMB: When painting double-hung windows that are still in the jamb, pull the upper sash down and raise the lower sash so you can paint the surfaces that touch each other when the window is closed. Let the paint dry completely before closing the window.

7. RETURN THE SASHES TO NORMAL POSITION: Return the sashes to their normal position and paint the stops and jambs.

8. PAINT THE SIDES OF THE CASING: Paint the sides of the casing, then the faces of the casing, and continue to the sill. Use masking tape or a paint shield to keep trim paint off the siding. If you use tape, be sure to remove it as soon as the paint is dry to the touch.


Painting Jambs, Casings and Trim

Painting the trim around exterior doors requires special care so you don't get paint on the door itself or on nearby trim. Remember, this is the entrance to your house–you'll want it to look especially nice. As with all exterior trim, select Jewell Exterior Latex Paint. Jewell paints are specially formulated to resist weather extremes.

1. WEDGE DOOR OPEN: When painting the trim around exterior doors, you'll need access to the stops and the jambs, so wedge the door open as you work. If you have a storm door or screen door, remove it so it won't get in the way.

2. PAINT THE JAMB AND THE STOP FIRST: First, paint the jamb and the stop, starting at the top on the inside corner and working our way down the sides. Then paint the other side. Finally, paint across the top.

3. PAINT CASINGS WHILE JAMBS ARE STILL WET: Paint the casings while the jambs are still wet. Mask the siding along the outside edges or, if you've got a steady hand, cut in with a trim brush. Paint the threshold after the jambs and the casings have dried.


Cleaning up and properly disposing of your paint

Painting the trim around exterior doors requires special care so you don't get paint on the door itself or on nearby trim. Remember, this is the entrance to your house–you'll want it to look especially nice. As with all exterior trim, select Jewell Exterior Latex Paint. Jewell paints are specially formulated to resist weather extremes.

Water-based paints make cleaning up fast and easy. Clean any spills with a damp cloth before they dry. Clean brushes, rollers and other tools with soap and water. Please think about our environment
Try to buy only the amount of paint you’ll need for your project.

Save small amounts of leftover paint for future touch-ups. To keep the paint fresh for future use, put a layer of plastic wrap over the mouth of the can before replacing the lid securely.

Cans with completely dried paint residue may be disposed of in ordinary household trash. Leave the lid off the container so the collector can see that the paint has dried.


Caring for your newly painted exterior

Periodically check the condition of exterior paint to resolve any paint problems early.

Cracking, peeling or blistering should be repaired quickly to reduce future repainting costs.

Dirt accumulation can often be removed by rinsing with a garden hose.
Please note that these suggestions are provided as a service to you. We are unable to guarantee or be responsible for the results obtained by these procedures. If you have additional questions, please contact any of our expert sales associates.