Nothing in the world breathes life into your home like a fresh coat of Jewell Paint. Use this step-by-step guidance and our range of Jewell Interior paints and primers to achieve beautiful, long-lasting, professional-quality results. STEP-1
Choosing the right paint
While any paint can give a home a quick facelift, a premium paint can truly transform a home’s interior and make it last. A premium paint offers a smoother, more uniform appearance, as well as much better coverage, than an economy paint. Because a home is a major investment, premium paint provides the long-term protection it deserves. Consider using Jewell premium interior latex paints for superior stain resistance and washability, excellent hide and block resistance, and low odor.
The gloss level you choose for your paint project can have a significant impact on both appearance and
maintenance. A color in higher gloss paint will appear brighter and richer than the same color in a lower
gloss. Also, higher glosses will have better washability and stain resistance, though they may also
highlight defects and imperfections on a surface.
Soft Glo - paints are a good choice for adult bedrooms, living or dining rooms, and ceilings. For these areas, we recommend Jewell Maskk Soft Glo Paint.
Pearl Glo - paints can be used for high traffic areas such as hall ways, living rooms, drawing room or bedrooms. Consider using Jewell Attitude Pearl Glo for such areas.
Semi Glo & Dazzle Glo - paints are ideal for kitchens, bathrooms, family rooms, children’s bedrooms, utility areas, woodwork, doors and trim. We recommend Jewell Big & Bright Semi Glo & Attitude Dazzle Glo Paint for such areas.
Estimating the correct amount of paint
Buying the right tools & supplies
Room painting basics
It’s true that paint is the easiest and fastest way to give your rooms a facelift, but it’s still an investment of time and money.
That’s why you want to be sure to do it right-and doing it right includes taking a little extra time up front to prepare surfaces properly. No matter how expensive the paint, it won’t hide existing surface flaws. Ensure that your surface is smooth, clean, and ready for paint.
Choose the right primer. Remember that primer isn’t simply diluted paint-it’s like double-sided adhesive tape. It bonds to the existing surface and in turn “grabs” the paint and ensures good adhesion. For best results always choose a primer of the same brand as the paint you select. Tinting the primer can give you a headstart on getting good color coverage and is recommended if you’re working with dark colors. Dark colors needs three to four coats, even with a primer.
No amount of paint, no matter how high its quality, will cover flaws in the wall beneath or adhere well to dirty walls. Thus, proper preparation, whether for a single coat of paint or decorative paint finish, is the most important step of any painting project. (Before painting, mark any marred wall areas with a soft-lead pencil so you don’t overlook needed repairs).STEP-4/1
1. COVER AREA WITH DROP CLOTHES Move furniture away from walls and protect floor and baseboards with 12-inch baseboard masking and a paper/poly drop cloth.
2. REPAIR SMALL CRACKS AND HOLES Set popped nails or screws, repair cracks and holes, and fill dents with lightweight crack filler.
3. REMOVE STAINS AND MILDEW Treat any areas of mildew with a 3-to-1 water/bleach solution. Mix three parts water to one part bleach in a plastic bucket. Apply liberally with a sponge. Apply again after 20 minutes. Rinse thoroughly with clean, fresh water. If you are sensitive to bleach, protect your hands and eyes.
4. SAND WITH A SANDING BLOCK Let the crack filler dry according to the manufacturer’s instructions, then sand the wall using a sanding block with 220-grit sandpaper.
5. CLEAN THE WALLS Clean with a Trisodium phosphate (TSP), a nonsudsing soap that is 100% phosphate, is the most powerful cleaner you can buy. Otherwise, use a TSP substitute, which does not need rinsing. Let the wall dry overnight.
6. SPOT-PRIME REPAIRED AREAS Spot-prime all of the repaired areas with Jewell Interior waterborne primer. If stains are still bleeding through, use Jewell oil-based white primer
It’s almost impossible for paint to adhere to a glossy surface, because a glossy surface lacks what painters
call “tooth”, or roughness, which gives the paint something to stick to.
To detect gloss, use a bright light with a reflector to shield your eyes. It doesn’t take much to create tooth-a light sanding or use of a chemical deglosser will do the trick. When the surface ceases to be reflective, it’s ready to paint.
1. SAND LIGHTLY UNTIL SMOOTH Fill gaps in trim and baseboard with paintable caulk, then sand lightly with 220-grit sandpaper. Use a sanding block for flat surfaces, a brass-wire brush for fluted surfaces.
2. REMOVE DUST WITH A TACK CLOTH Remove the sanding or brushing residue with a tack cloth so the surface is smooth and clean.
Choosing the right tools
Brush selection, use and care are as critical to your success at painting as surface preparation. A good paint brush feels like a natural extension of your hand. Brushes come in various qualities and prices.
Quality speaks. Bristle brushes are more expensive. They have earned their popularity with their variety of uses,
ease of cleaning & reuse capabilities. There are two types of bristles:
Natural (usually hog) for solvent-based finishes
Synthetic (nylon or polyester) for water-based finishes . Some can be used with oil-based finishes as well
The bristle edge. Compared with rollers and pads, the advantages of bristle brushes include:
Durability & reusability
Ability to apply a heavier coat
On the other hand. The disadvantages to bristle are:
Slower application than a roller or pad
Brush marks (a function of quality and expertise)
Skill required to cover large areas
The right brush for the job speeds the painting process and ensures better results. A wooden handle absorbs moisture, making holding easier. A plastic handle will get slippery.
Achieve stunning results by knowing some key points, how to properly use a high-quality paintbrush.
Prime (wet) the brush with the right thinner (water for latex & acrylic paint, and mineral spirits for alkyd) before you dip it into paint. Brush out excess thinner or water and load the brush with paint.
Don’t press the bristles firmly against the side of the paint can or bucket. Pressure will collapse and empty the reservoir between the
The bristle edge. Compared with rollers and pads, the advantages of bristle brushes include:
Overbrushing results in what the pros call “roping,” which are the lines the brush leaves in the paint because it was already partially dried when it was painted over.
The general rule is, “Let it dry and fix it later.”
Use a roller cover with a long nap for rough surfaces, a short nap for smooth surfaces.
A roller nap is the fiber that applies the paint. Select a roller nap designed for the texture of the wall you plan to paint and the type of paint you plan to use. As with many things in life, you get what you pay for. A cheap roller has a cardboard core that quickly goes out of round and a nap that will soon come off on the surface. It costs a little more to get a roller with a fiber core and well-attached nap, but it’s easy to clean and will last through several jobs.
Most naps are nylon, good for both latex and alkyd paint. Lamb’s wool rollers are excellent for applying alkyd paint, but they tend to soften in water-based paints and are expensive. Common nap lengths vary from 3/16 inch to 1¼ inches. The longer the nap fiber, the rougher the surface it will cover. Short naps apply a smoother coat of paint and are recommended for dark colors.
Choose your roller nap to match the project. The smoother or glossier the surface, the
shorter the nap you should use.
Use 3/16 inch and 1/4 inch naps with gloss paints on smooth surfaces, such as shelving and cabinets.
Use a 3/8 inch nap for soft, satin, semi, pearl & dazzle glo paints on walls and ceilings.
Use 1/2 inch and 3/4 inch naps for semi rough surfaces, such as concrete floors and textured walls.
Use 1 inch or 1¼ inch naps for brick, concrete block, and heavy stucco or for applying metallic paints to wall.
FOR SPEED, EFFICIENCY, AND EVEN COVERAGE ON A LARGE SPACE, USE A PAINT ROLLER.
When the can says it covers 400 square feet, it isn’t kidding; most pros don’t expect to get more than 300 to 350 feet.
Stretching paint for extended coverage is the most common mistake beginning painters make.
You’ll know you’ve got the right amount of paint for good coverage on your roller when it doesn’t slide or skips, rolls on smoothly, and doesn’t drip. Let the roller do the work; use only enough pressure to get the paint on the wall.
1. LIGHTLY DAMPEN THE ROLLER
Prime the roller cover with a misting bottle filled with water (latex or acrylic) or a rag doused in mineral spirits (alkyd) before starting. Remove excess liquid, or the first application will run.
2. DIP THE ROLLER INTO PAINT
Dip the roller cover into the tray and saturate it with paint. Then remove excess paint by gently rolling it back and forth on the grated part of the paint tray.
3. PAINT A “W” PATTERN
Start at a corner and roll on an 18x18 inch W pattern. If the paint drips, start with an upstroke, making an M.
4. FILL IN WITH PAINT
Fill in the W without lifting the roller. Continue down and across, bleeding sections together. Keep the roller wet with paint.
5. BACK-ROLL TO SMOOTH FINISH
After you finish a 3-foot-wide section, reload the roller lightly and back-roll from floor to ceiling. This smooths out the finish and removes lap marks, drips, and bare spots. Do not back-roll if the paint has already begun to dry or you’ll simply pull the paint off the wall.
Priming is essential
Priming helps ensure a professional-looking paint job. It isn’t just a way to sell you one more paint product, and isn’t just watered-down paint. Primer is a specially formulated product designed to:
Help the finish coat develop max. sheen
Give the finish coat a uniform appearance
Increase the finish coat coverage
Block stains from water, dirt, smoke, etc.
Block tannins from aromatic woods
Block resins from knots and pitch pockets
Add to corrosion resistance over metals
PRIMED FOR SUCCESS:
Priming involves the same steps as painting the finish coat on the wall. To prepare all surfaces for priming, first repair and clean them. Cover all surfaces you do not plan to paint; primer can be as difficult to remove as paint. And it spatters just as much! Primers have different windows of time that they retain tooth for good adhesion, from 24 hours to 30 days. Check the label on the can to determine whether you need to apply the finish paint within a day or two of priming.
WHY USE BOTH PAINT AND PRIMER?:
Paint and primer perform two distinct and important functions, and to get a good job you can’t use one without the other. Primer provides bonding and blocking. Paint provides durability and color.
THE TAPE TEST:
If the wall has been previously painted with latex, if there has been no patching, and if the paint is clean and adhering well, you may be able to consider the old paint to be the primer for the new. HERE IS A TEST: Press a piece of transparent tape onto the old paint, and then remove it. If the old paint comes off with the tape, you need to prime.
PRIMING THE WALL IS THE FINAL STEP BEFORE YOU ACTUALLY PAINT IT.
1. TINT PRIMER FOR BEST RESULTS
Most primers can be tinted, and tinting will ensure good coverage for the finish coat. But too much tint will dilute the primer and reduce its efficiency. Usually a primer can be tinted by no more than 25% of the formula for the color you’ve chosen.
2. SPRAY ROLLER OR BRUSH Dampen your roller or brush to get off to a fast start. Use water for acrylic, paint thinner for alkyd.
3. CUT IN CORNERS
Pick your starting point and cut in the corner with a 2-inch sash brush or a corner pad. Cut in the first 3 to 4 feet along the ceiling too.
5. PAINT A W-PATTERN
Roll the remaining wall in 3x3 foot sections, working from top to bottom. Lay the primer down in a W, then fill in the gaps without lifting the roller.
4. ROLL ON PRIMER Apply the primer using a 9-inch roller with the appropriate nap. Start with a single vertical strip at the cut-in corner.
Ceilings are as easy to paint as the walls. Just do the necessary preparation work and use the right tools.
Painting a ceiling? Invest in an extension pole, safety goggles, and a painter’s cap. And use Jewell Maskk Soft Glo Paint. It comes in a variety of colors, all specially formulated to:
Diffuse light from lamps, windows, and other sources of illumination. Have a flat sheen, so the ceiling will have an even appearance. Offer better spatter resistance for overhead rolling.
Prepare the ceiling before painting. Dust and grime accumulate, making it virtually impossible for paint to adhere. Mildew and water stains will bleed through even the best of paint. Cracks, mars, and dents are more visible in the artificial light that generally reflects off ceilings. Keys to superior ceiling results are careful, thorough preparation, priming, and the use of a quality paint. Add color. The ceiling can be important part of your color palette. For instance, if you want to bring the ceiling “down” for a cozier room, paint it a darker color. For a light, airy feeling, paint the ceiling a very pale blue.
1. REMOVE OR COVER FIXTURES Remove or bag the ceiling fixtures. Removal of the ceiling fixtures will make for a neater job, but you can also drop the cover plates and wrap the fixtures in plastic bags.
2. MASK OFF THE WALL
Mask off the tops of the walls with 2-inch blue painter’s tape. One-inch tape would allow the roller to strike the wall.
3. PROTECT AREA WITH DROP CLOTHS Cover the floor by overlapping drop cloths by at least 12 inches. Protect windows, doors, and trim, if necessary.
4. DAMPEN THE ROLLER Prime the roller cover by spraying it with a misting bottle until it is just damp. Remove excess water before you begin painting.
5. CUT IN THE CORNER To start, cut in one corner of the ceiling with a paint pad. Cut in only as much as you can roll out before the paint dries.
6. ROLL ALONG THE WET EDGE TO BLEND AREAS
Begin rolling over the still-wet cut-in strip. Keeping a wet edge prevents overlap marks in the finished ceiling. Load the roller regularly and roll slowly. Back-roll to blend the paint.
7. WORK IN MANAGEABLE SECTIONS
Work in sections to keep wet edges. Cut in with a pad or brush, apply paint with a roller, then roll out applied paint to blend the two areas.
8. VARY THE DIRECTION OF THE ROLLER
Slightly vary the direction of your rolling. Perfectly straight rolling is more likely to show overlap marks.
9. CONTINUE UNTIL THE SECTION IS DONE Continue applying paint, rolling out, and blending until the first cut-in section is finished.
10. START ON THE NEXT SECTION Begin the next section by cutting in the wall/ceiling joint.
11. REPEAT THE PROCESS Apply paint, roll out, and blend with the cut-in edge and the previous section.
BETTER RESULTS: Roll in the direction of the shorter room dimension to minimize the drying time between passes. This gives you time to feather the wet paint, avoiding overlap marks.
USE THE RIGHT ROLLER FOR TEXTURED OR ROUGH CEILINGS: Textured or roughed ceilings require special rollers that will allow the paint to fill in properly. Depending upon the thickness of the texture, use a rough-surface or split-foam roller.
The basics of painting are easy to learn, and putting them into practice will make every painting job easier and faster!
Changing the color scheme in a room is the fastest and least expensive decorating touch on the market.
Jewell wall paints are formulated to:
Provide maximum covering Have good scrub and burnish resistance Resist stains from spills, ink markers, and crayons.
If you are radically changing the colors or are applying a much darker color, a second coat is essential, and a third may be necessary to completely cover a wall.
Start painting from a corner of the room that isn’t hit by direct sunlight. Sunlit walls may be too hot for the paint to make its initial bond, possibly affecting the final cure. If the wall is warm to the touch, wait until it cools down before you apply the paint.
1. PAINT TEST PANELS TO FIND THE RIGHT COLOR Before finalizing your wall color choice, paint test panels with colors you are considering. Compare candidate colors under all the lighting conditions you will find in the room over the course of a full day and evening.
2. REMOVE THE COVER PLATES Remove all of the electrical cover plates on the wall. Reinstall the screws in the outlet box to avoid misplacing them.
3. COVER RECEPTACLES WITH PAINTER’S TAPE Pull off dimmer knobs. Cover the switches and receptacles with masking tape.
4. REMOVE OR COVER FURNITURE Remove all of the furniture or group it in the center of the room. Protect it from spatters with plastic or a drop cloth.
5. PROTECT SURFACES FROM PAINT Mask any surfaces not to be painted, such as door & windows casings, with blue painter’s tape.
6. PROTECT THE BASEBOARDS
Mask off the baseboards with 12-inch baseboard masking, overlapping the floor drop cloth. (Clean the baseboards before taping to ensure good adhesion).
7. MIX ENOUGH PAINT TO COMPLETE THE ENTIRE JOB
Box the paint (mix the contents of all the containers for consistency) in a 5 gallon bucket and stir.
8. DAMPEN THE ROLLER AND PAINTBRUSH
Prime the roller cover and cutting-in brush by wetting with a misting bottle. Remove excess water before applying paint.
9. CUT IN AT THE CORNER Start by cutting in a corner with the brush. Cut in only as far as your arm will reach to make sure you keep a wet edge when you roll on the paint.
10. ROLL OUT FROM THE WET EDGE Begin rolling by applying a vertical strip that overlaps the cut-in strip.
11. PAINT A “W” PATTERN Roll paint in a W pattern, and then spread the paint to fill in the pattern. Work in small sections so the paint doesn’t begin to dry before you can fill in the section.
12. BACK-ROLL TO BLEND THE SECTION
Roll paint in a W pattern, and then spread the paint to fill in the pattern. Work in small sections so the paint doesn't begin to dry before you can fill in the section.
13. MASK OFF WALL TO PAINT TRIM
Give the wall paint a minimum of 24 hours to cure, then mask with blue painter’s tape.
14. PAINT THE TRIM IF DESIRED
Don’t puddle paint against the tape, however, or you’ll pull of paint along with the tape when you remove it. Remove the tape immediately by pulling it down and away from the wall.
Cleaning up and Properly Disposing of Your paint
Water-based paints make cleaning up fast and easy. Clean any spills with a damp cloth before they dry. Clean brushes,
rollers and other tools with soap and water.
PLEASE THINK ABOUT OUR ENVIRONMENT
Try to buy only the amount of paint you’ll need for your project.
Save small amounts of leftover paint for future touch-ups. To keep the paint fresh for future use, put a layer of plastic wrap over the mouth of the can before replacing the lid securely.
Cans with completely dried paint residue may be disposed of in ordinary household trash. Leave the lid off the container so the collector can see that the paint has dried.
NEVER POUR LEFTOVER PAINT DOWN A DRAIN OR INTO A STORM SEWER.
Washing dirt from painted walls before it accumulates not only improves appearance, it reduces the chance of the dirt becoming permanently embedded in the paint. Make sure to check for dirt periodically and assume it will be present in and near cooking areas (airborne cooking oil) and on areas that are frequently touched.
Caring for your newly painted walls
When washing walls or removing stains, do only the minimum amount of cleaning, using the lightest pressure necessary,
in order to avoid eroding the paint or creating any shiny spots (burnishing).
Always use the least aggressive cleaner, such as a mild soap solution, and cleaning process that will remove the dirt or stain.
Always wet a sponge before use to prevent excessive surface abrasion.
Always rinse walls sufficiently with warm water. This is an important step, as any cleaning solution residue will attract dust and dirt quickly.
It is not always possible to wash off all stains (such as permanent markers). These and other stains may bleed or show through when painted.
If there is any doubt about residual stains, consider applying a high quality, stain-blocking primer before painting.
If cleaning or other burnishing has left the surface shiny in some areas, the primer will also give a consistent look.
> Please note that these suggestions are provided as a service to you. We are unable to guarantee or be responsible for the results obtained by these procedures.
> If you have additional questions, please contact any of our expert sales associates.