painting styles and techniquies

A fresh coat of paint does wonders in a room, but to really breathe new life into plain walls and tired furniture, try giving that fresh coat a little something extra. Eye-catching patterns and surface textures are surprisingly easy to create yourself, and you can see the beautiful results of your project in the space of a single weekend.

Take help of our step-by-step instructions given below for producing various professional-looking effects. Practice your technique on a smaller project first, on a small piece of drywall, then try your hand at decorating a wall. Once you’ve discovered how easy it is, you’ll see that the creative possibilities are endless!

Add dimension and personality to your room by following below mentioned creative techniques.

PAINTING your steps is a great way to update your staircase. It is easy and you can add your own personal touch. If you are painting over raw wood or concrete, make sure to use a primer before applying any paint. What we have here is a chevron pattern on stair risers. Here is a step by step guide on how it’s done! Enjoy! 

First, chose two colors that you will use to create this look. You’ll want to start by painting your stair risers with the lighter of the two colors, in this case, white. Apply two coats if necessary and allow the last coat to dry for at least 24 hours.


Draw the pattern onto any heavy material to make your stencil. Cardboard, card stock, or heavy plastic are just a few materials that would work. Then cut out your pattern using a hobby knife and ruler.


The easiest and most time efficient way to create a chevron pattern is by using 2” painters tape.

STEP 2:  Draw the pattern out first with a ruler and make sure it’s even.

Step 3: Following your pencil lines, tape off the inside of the triangle.

STEP 4: Paint over the tape with your roller. Make sure you don’t overload the roller. If you do the paint will bleed through the tape.

STEP 5: Remove your tape, and touch up any imperfections with your artist brush.

PAINTING your steps is a great way to update your staircase. It is easy and you can add your own personal touch. If you are painting over raw wood or concrete, make sure to use a primer before applying any paint. What we have here is a chevron pattern on stair risers. Here is a step by step guide on how it’s done! Enjoy! 

Here are the supplies that are needed

• Hobby Knife
• Floor Paint in two contrasting colors
• Painters Tape for delicate surfaces
• Small Roller
• Paint Brush
• Drop Cloth
• Artist Brush
• Heavy material for stencil
• Ruler
• Pencil
• Level

Repeat the steps for each stair until your project is complete!

Chevrons can go anywhere, not just stairs. You can paint them on the front of a dresser, on a headboard or even paint them on a wall as an accent wall. The possibilties are endless!

Blocks of color Blocks of color turn boring walls into exciting focal points and can supply character to a room with no architectural features or details. The blocks can be uniform in size and shape, or you can vary the sizes and combine squares and rectangles. The trick is to create a visually balanced arrangement.

When planning the design, experiment by arranging painted squares of paper on a table until you like the result. Allow most squares to remain in the base-coat color to minimize the amount of taping and painting. Or eliminate the taping altogether by hand-painting the blocks. For a balanced look, choose colors of the same value or intensity by selecting hues that are in the same position on various paint cards.

Colors from the same paint chip produce a sophisticated, monochromatic effect. For a subtle design, choose adjacent colors on the paint chip. 

STEP-1: MARK THE VERTICAL MEASUREMENTS, The color blocks shown are 22 inches square. Use a tape measure and divide the wall into 22-inch squares.

STEP-2: Make the vertical 22-inch measurement beginning at the ceiling and ending at the floor.

STEP-3: If you are blocking the whole room, continue the blocks around the corners, or measure each wall and adjust the block widths to fit. Keep the height of the blocks the same around the room. Use a level and colored pencil to draw the vertical lines.

STEP-4: MARK THE HORIZONTAL MEASUREMENTS, Mark the horizontal lines with a tape measure. Using a level and colored pencil, draw the horizontal lines, creating squares across the entire wall.

STEP-5: MASK OFF, Mask off the squares of one color with low-tack painter’s tape.

STEP-6: Leave some of the blocks in the original base-coat color. Burnish the edges of the tape with a finger to keep paint from bleeding underneath. Use the mini roller to repaint the base-coat color onto the block. Allow the base coat to dry.

STEP-7: PAINT THE FIRST COLOR, Paint all the blocks in the first color. Carefully remove the tape while the paint is still wet so you don’t pull up any paint.

STEP-8, Repeat the taping and painting process with all other colors, painting one color at a time, allowing the blocks to dry in between.

Harlequin diamonds are a wonderfully versatile pattern. In a child's room, they have a happy energetic effect suggesting the pattern on a clown's costume.

In a dining room or living room, a diamond motif is classic and formal without being stuffy.

Plan the design so that the diamond height is approximately twice the diamond width. Instead of taping off the diamonds, use a chalk line snapped across the wall to outline the pattern.

The chalk line's irregular edges give the design a casual appearance.Another option is to hand-paint the diamonds instead of taping them off. This gives a whimsical look.

Complementary colors make a bold statement, while a monochromatic color scheme creates a more sophisticated backdrop. This pattern can easily be combined with other faux-finishing techniques.

For a color-washed effect, mix the paint with 4 parts glaze instead of using undiluted paint. 

PLAN THE DIAMOND PATTERN, Decide on the height and width of the diamond pattern. The diamonds shown are 10 inches wide and 18 inches tall. If you are extending the diamond pattern around the whole room, keep the height of the diamonds the same on every wall, but adjust the width as necessary to fit the wall length.

STEP-1: Take the time to work this out on paper; a sketch can help you picture the scale and placement of the diamond pattern so you know where and how to begin marking your measurements.

STEP-2: MARK VERTICAL DASHES, Working on 1 wall at a time, use a level with printed measurements to make vertical dashes every 10 inches. Start on the left-had side of the wall & move to the right. The first line should start 5 inches from the corner, the every 10 inches after that, & ending with 5-inch measurement on the other side of the wall. Adjust the 10-inch width to match your wall size. For eg: if your wall is exactly 10 feet long, then 12 diamonds 10” wide will fit perfectly across the wall.

STEP-3: Always calculate the width of your wall in inches and divide with the calculator to get a perfect division. Extend the dashes vertically

STEP-4: Extend the dashes horizontally across the wall. Each vertical line represents the central axis of the diamond. To mark the side points, measure 5 inches on each side of each vertical line, marking the point on the horizontal lines. Adjust the measurement of the diamonds you are creating are a different size from the 10-inch diamonds.

STEP-5: MARK THE DIAMOND HEIGHT, Measure and mark the diamond height by making horizontal dashes every 18 inches. The first mark will be 9 inches from the ceiling and every 18 inches after that, ending with 9 inches at the baseboard. Again, adjust the height to fit your walls. Plan for a whole diamond starting at the ceiling and ending at the baseboard. If you prefer, start the pattern at the ceiling and allow it to end at the baseboard where it may.

STEP-6: MARK THE TOP AND BOTTOM POINTS, Each horizontal line marks the widest point of the diamond. To make the top and bottom points of each diamond, measure and mark 9 inches above and below the horizontal line. Adjust the measurement if your diamond height is different from 18 inches. Using the points marked in steps 3-4 as your guide, tape off every other diamond. The vertical and horizontal lines will be inside the diamonds. Press down hard on the painter’s tape with a finger.

STEP-7: Use the 4-inch mini roller and repaint the base-coat color on the taped-off diamonds. This will allow the wall color to bleed underneath the tape instead of the top-coat color. Allow to dry.

STEP-8: APPLY TOE TOP-COAT COLOR, Use the 4-inch mini roller and apply the Jewell latex paint. Apply two coats if necessary. Remove tape and allow to dry. Tape off the remaining diamonds.

STEP-9: REPAINT THE BASE COAT, Repaint the taped-off diamonds with the other Jewell latex paint color. Paint the taped-off diamonds with the firstly used Jewell color. Recoat if necessary. Remove all remaining tape and allow to dry.

Steps 1: Clean walls and tape off the trim, baseboards and ceiling.

Steps 2 : Apply the base coat. Start by cutting in the perimeter of the room with a brush and then roll out the rest. Allow the base coat to dry.

Steps 3 : Determine the desired type of stripes. Horizontal stripes make a room feel wider; vertical stripes make a room feel taller. Also, decide the width of the stripes, keeping them four to 12 inches apart.

Steps 4 : Use a pencil to mark dots on the walls where you want the edge of the stripes. Using a laser level will ensure your lines are straight. Make multiple dots for each edge.

Steps 5 : Align the edge of painter's tape with the pencil marks to create the borders of your stripes. Be sure to press the edges of the tape down firmly so paint won't bleed under.

Steps 6 : Use a foam roller to fill in the stripe with your chosen paint color.

Steps 7 : To add a racing stripe effect, after your main stripe has dried, repeat the measuring, marking and taping process within the stripe. Use a small foam roller to fill in between the tape with a third wall color.

Steps 8 : Allow the paint to dry for an hour, remove the tape and do touch-ups as needed.


Step 1: Starting from the ceiling, measure the height of your wall and divide by 5 to figure out how tall each stripe should be.

Add a line of tape where the top horizontal stripe will end, using a level.

Step 2: Paint the top stripe the lightest green. Remove the tape at the stripe’s bottom edge while the paint is still wet. Let dry.

Step 3: Apply a new strip of painter’s tape on the lightest stripe, along its bottom edge.

Add a second piece of tape where you want your next stripe to end.Paint the second stripe the next darkest shade.

Remove both pieces of tape while the paint is still wet. Let dry.

Step 4: Repeat step 3 for the remaining three stripes, ending with the darkest green at the bottom.

Materials Needed:
• Tape measure
• Painter's tape
• Level
• Paint in five shades of green
(or your color of choice)
• Paint roller



Step 1: Paint the entire wall white. Let dry.

Step 2: Measure the wall’s width in inches. Divide the width by 16 to determine the total number of patterns.

Step 3: Find the center of the wall; mark it with a pencil. Tape off two vertical lines 10 inches apart, each 5 inches from the center of the wall.

Measure in 1 inch from each vertical line and tape off two more vertical lines.

Paint the white wall between the taped sections blue. Remove the tape. Repeat this pattern every 6 inches.

Materials Needed:
• White and blue paint (or two colors of your choice)
• Paint rollers
• Tape measure
• Pencil
• Painter's tape

Materials Needed:
• 3 - 5 different shades of latex paint
• Painter's tape
• Roller handle
• Roller sleeve
• Paint pan
• Extender pole
• Drop cloth
• Detail brush
• Measuring tape
• Pencil or marker
• Craft paper or scrap paper
• Ladder
• Detail brush or cotton swab
• Credit card or burnisher
• Chalk line

STEP-1: PAINT BASE COLOR: Choose a base color to paint the ceiling as well as the angled tray. Use a roller handle and roller sleeve attached to extender pole to properly cover all surfaces.

STEP-2: TAKE MEASUREMENTS: Use measuring tape to determine the surface area of the ceiling as well as the height of the angled tray. Jot these measurements down with pencil and paper. Use a calculator to divide the measurements by the desired number of stripes intended for the overall look. The total will equal the proper width for symmetrical stripes.

STEP-3: SKETCH LAYOUT: Based on the dimensions of the tray, create a sketch indicating width of stripes. Next, assign a paint color to each of the stripes by dipping a detail brush or cotton swab into the paint can, then dabbing paper.

STEP-4: MEASURE & MARK STRIPES: Use measuring tape and a pencil to measure and mark width of stripes.Next, snap a chalk line along the pencil mark to create a straight line for each stripe along the tray as well as the ceiling.

STEP-5: PLACE PAINTER'S TAPE: Once a chalk line is snapped for all stripes, use painter's tape to mark stripes that will be left as the base color and those painted with accent colors.

STEP-6: To mark base color stripes, position tape along the inside top and inside bottom edges.

STEP-7: To prevent any bleeding, use a credit card or burnisher to ensure tape lays perfectly flat, void of any gaps.

STEP-8: PAINT ACCENT COLORS: Starting with marked stripes on the ceiling and working downward to tray, apply paint between marked-off areas using a 2-inch angled paintbrush and rollers.

STEP-9: REMOVE TAPE & TOUCH UP: Once all painted stripes are dry to the touch, remove painter's tape and touch up any imperfections with detail brush.

STEP-10: FINISH WITH FIXTURES: Reinstall any fixtures you may have removed while painting and admire the finished product.

With this project, you can add decades' worth of weathering to your walls in a day. Here's how to do it:

Materials Needed:
• 1 quart water-based matte-finish interior wall paint
• Paint rollers and covers extendable paint rollers
  (optional, for tall walls and ceilings)
• Paintbrushes for water-based paint
• Paint trays
• Drop cloths or sheets
• Painter's tape

Steps 1: Lay drop cloths or old sheets to protect flooring. Tape off the baseboards, trim, molding and outlets.

Step 2: Apply a base coat of paint with paint rollers on the entire wall. Use brushes for the edges and smaller areas and an angled bristle brush for corners. Apply a second coat if necessary. Let dry.

Step 3: Practice the antique faux-finish technique on a piece of drywall or sample board before starting on the walls. To create the antique faux finish, dip a small brush into the desired paint about halfway up the bristles. Wipe off all excess paint so that you have an almost-dry brush. Lightly apply up-and-down strokes. When satisfied, apply the technique to the walls. Let dry. If you'd like a more weathered look, repeat the technique in a left-to-right motion.

Materials Needed:
• 1–2 pieces of poster board
• Masking tape
• Ruler
• Pen or pencil
• Box cutter or scissors
• Wooden board
• Painter's tape
• Small foam roller
• Paint
• Small artist's brush

STEP-1: To make a stencil, start with a piece of poster board. If you want a larger stencil to balance the scale of your room, tape two pieces of poster board together with some masking tape.Begin to draw your pattern on the poster board. If you are not comfortable with free-handing your design, use a ruler to create a geometric pattern. You can also find patterns on the internet.

STEP-2: Once your pattern is completely drawn, trace over the lines with a box cutter or use a pair of scissors to cut it.

If using a box cutter, place a piece of wood or other solid material underneath the poster board to protect your table from scratches.

STEP-3: Once the stencil is cut out, tape it to the wall using painter's tape.

Use a level to make sure your design lines straight.
Using a small foam roller, with minimal paint, apply the paint directly over the stencil. Don't use too much paint because it could bleed under your stencil.

Materials Needed:
• Paint tray
• Stencil brush
• Cosmetic wedges
• Stencil
• Spray adhesive
• Drop cloth or poster board
• Rags
• Latex paint (semi gloss, velvet or matte)

Steps 1: Prepare the walls for painting; apply the base coat and let dry. Step 2: Protect the work area by spraying the adhesive onto the back of the first layer of the stencil against a drop cloth or poster board. Spray adhesive is like tape; it holds the stencil in place, but allows it to peel off easily when done. Put the stencil in the desired position on the wall. Step 3: Less paint is more in stenciling, so barely graze the top of the brush over the surface of the paint and brush off the excess onto a rag. The small amount of paint, along with a dabbing motion around the edges, helps alleviate bleeding underneath the stencil. Step 4: There's no need to wait for the paint to dry when done; just peel the stencil off carefully. If no paint has seeped underneath, position the stencil elsewhere on the wall and repeat the process. The spray adhesive should stick for two or three uses. Wash both sides of the stencil every few uses to remove paint/adhesive, and dry thoroughly. Repeat until done, and let paint dry thoroughly. Step 5: For layered stencils, it's critical to line up the pattern perfectly. Use cosmetic wedges to add contrast color for the next layer of color. The wedges provide more control of the paint in small areas. Let dry thoroughly.

STEP-2: Once your pattern is completely drawn, trace over the lines with a box cutter or use a pair of scissors to cut it.

If using a box cutter, place a piece of wood or other solid material underneath the poster board to protect your table from scratches.

STEP-3: Once the stencil is cut out, tape it to the wall using painter's tape.

Use a level to make sure your design lines straight.
Using a small foam roller, with minimal paint, apply the paint directly over the stencil. Don't use too much paint because it could bleed under your stencil.